Amarnath Kargil Drass 8th July to 15th July 2016
Uncountable
Uncountable thoughts, travel experience,emotions,... Keep on reading... feel free to add your comments.
Sunday, July 17, 2016
Sunday, August 23, 2015
HOW I GOT LEH'd!!
Trip to Manali-Leh-Ladakh...a perfect example of Incredible India! It has all the different flavor's of nature be it snow cap mountains (experience nothing less than Switzerland) , deep long valley (looks like grant canyon), white sand dunes, rivers, highest and challenging motor-able roads in world, beautiful lakes and along with that old monasteries (experience peace), war museum (proud moment for an Indian!)... simply amazing!
I heard about adventures trip to Leh-Ladakh from friends, blogs, news many time. This trip was a dream. During our trip to Pench National Park we (Amey, Manish, Jitu, Rahul, Suhas) decided to plan Leh trip in Jun15. We have got detailed itinerary from Vinay. He has completed this challenging and adventures ride on Royal Enfiled last year. Doing such tour need long leave and passion. We had only one week leave so we started looking out for exclusive tour who can match this itinerary. We started inquiring packages from Yatra, Make my trip but they were offering group packages and that too directly to Leh and back. Finally we reached out to Pearl Travels thru which we had visited Bangkok. Ankit has designed a exclusive tour for us for 9 days 8 nights within our budget Mumbai - Chandigarh - Manali - Leh - Mumbai.
Jitu wanted to go in June but we could not manage it because of other priorities, His leaves got waste, But we manage to take out time in Jul 15, which is probable the best time to visit Leh Ladakh and we experienced it. Rahul and Suhas had to drop due to personal and professional commitments. We finalized booking in Jun 15. I didn't got change to look in to plan in detail due to other work so not aware about exact details of tour like which are the halts, what are the goals from each day.
As usual, my preparation was at the level that on the day before our travel i was searching for bag...LOL.... thanks to Tushar...I got bag at 11:00 pm and I packed my bag based on details i got from Vinay and Arvind (Please fine attached detailed plan, it was really helpful). Finally the moment came on 12th July 2015. I left home at 7:30 am in morning flight was at 9:40 am. Reached airport at 8:00 am. Everyone was excited! It was first flight journey for Jitu, he was double excited...Flight was on time... it was Sunday morning everyone was silent/sleepy only 3 of us were making noise... as if all of us traveling for first time ...LoL...Manish is a frequent flyer..if there would have been a flight from Ghodbandar to Malad he would have taken pass for that too :P. With all these Masti we had light breakfast in flight... we landed in Chandigarh at 12:00 pm. Aahaa!! what a city...there is greenery everywhere... The first thing we did after landing is shopping on airport form AVA shop wallets, speakers and electric cooking vessel also...can't believe. We were spending time there unaware of journey that was waiting for us.
We came out of airport at around 1:00 pm and there Vijay (our driver) was waiting for us. Typical Haryanvi..He gave us first surprise of the trip..."Sahab Jaldi chaliye...Manali pohochne main late ho jayega" ...He told it will take around 8:00 pm to reach Manali...ohh!! We thought we will spend at least an hour in Chandigarh and have lunch and then once we reach Manali will spend some "leisure time" in Market as mentioned in itinerary. l.o.l. "Leisure Time" these words got different meaning during our entire journey.
Day 1 itinerary : Arrival Chandigarh-Manali Arrival at Chandigarh Airport. Meet the representative/driver who will transfer you to Manali. Check-in and Time at leisure to explore the beauty on Manali. Overnight at hotel in Manali (Dinner )
We drive out of airport and then Manish realized he forgot his boarding pass in AvA shop...we went back to airport ...this added additional 1/2 hr in our journey...Manish had to listen for this during entire journey...:D..."Sab log ek se badkar ek...koi mauka nahi chodte...".
So because of this first surprise we decided to have lunch on highway Dhaba only... at around 4 pm we took halt at Punjabi dhaba...while ordering food we came to know there are 4 different type of Chiken (Murgi) in Punjab...Chiken Handi, chiken tikka, chiken masal...and something..before this we were aware of only two Desi and English murgi...It was joke of the day...but food was awesome! chiken with roti with pure makkan on top of it...i never had such makkan till now...simply great... at the end we ordered Pajnb di Lassi... but it was like a Chas... disappointment...probably it was not a typical punjabi dhaba..We started from there in half an hour...due to bad roads we were moving slowly...First journey it self was too long...around 300 km ...during journey we realized we should have taken flight for Dharmshala...it was near to Manali and we might have got chance to enjoy Manali also...lessons learned!
At around 6 pm we realized that it will take around 4-5 hrs more to reach Manali...We called up in hotel...They said you have to reach by 10:30 for dinner else have dinner in route...it was so rude...We called up Ankit and complaint him about the same. Later on there was no network so couldn't call any of them. So we decided, lets go non stop and try to reach by 10:30 pm. The journey from Dharmshala bypass to Manali was simply amazing...slight rain, lake covered with clouds, river with pure white water flowing heavily... and climate was soothing... perfect environment to relax, where one should take a cup of drink and enjoy peaceful journey. Noise of water flowing in river was thrilling... None of us were slept previous night but still no one was looking fresh... We reached Manali market at around 10:20, still some shops were open but we did not had time so could not stop there...we reached hotel sharp at 10:30 pm...What a timing! we were discussing during journey... that we will straight away go to restaurant and have dinner and then will do check in. But hotel staff was really co operative they said "app chekin karke fresh ho jayiye...khana ready hai"...Ankit had taken care of it.
Driver informed us about next day schedule it was again around 250 km journey for next three days..and we had to start early morning around 6:00 am to reach destination on time...2nd surprise!!...
We had diner...i was feeling little uneasy so left diner in between and went to room... got fresh and went to sleep..praying there should not be any health issues else entire trip would spoil...Manish and Jitu didn't sleep that night also...
Next day morning i got up at 5:00 am went in gallery...sunrise has already happened...it was amazing view outside..snow cap mountains and greenery... It was very chilled ...i immediately close the door...put on my jacket took out camera and started photography...At around 7 am we started from hotel with packed breakfast from hotel.. We though of spending some time i market but it was on other side and Vijay told that journey is too long and thru mountains... we will be late to reach next halt "Sarchu"...(although we didn't reach there due to next surprise :P)...So we skip market/Manali and started ...By this time we realized that itinerary is not good...Our driver had experience of 15 years on that road...he also told that it should be max 150 km per day to enjoy all the spots.. we realized next 3 days are going to be task for us to complete 10 to 12 hours of journey with sight seeing and photography... But 3 Idiots was on Rodie's Journey and many more surprises where waiting for us on the road... and first spot was 'Rohtang pass" or "Rohtang la"...In Himachal/Ladhakh they call 'La' for mountain road by pass...
Day 2 itinerary: Manali to Sarchu (222 Kms) Leave for Sarchu by early Morning, through Rohtang Pass (13050 ft), Lahaul Valley, Tandi, Keylong, Jispa, Lunch Break at Darcha. After Lunch drive to Sarchu through Baralacha Pass (16020 ft). Overnight stay at Hotel
We reached Rohtangpass at around 10 am ...the same location in "Jub We Met"... awesome it was.. There are many shops on the way where you can take snow suite on rent..starting from 50 Rs. to 250 Rs...If you have time should take it and enjoy to the fullest...but We had only 15 mins there...So just bought hand gloves and enjoyed in snow for 1/2 an hour.. out first photo session of the trip :)...
Driver was already worried...he said we have run have to cross all nala (Water flows generated due to melting glaciers and which cuts roads evening due to heavy force of water)... There were 3 major Nala's on the road we had to cross during this 2nd day journey to reach "Sarchu"... We started immediately non stop thru Lahaul Valley, Tandi, Keylong, Jispa, at around 4 pm we were at Darcha, We took halt there at lunch/snacks. We didn't got chance to halt and take photos at any of these spots. We were angry at Ankit what kind of pathetic itinerary it is. We are yet to cross 3 Nala's and it was already 4:30 pm..we started from Darcha and cross 1st Nala's in next 20 mins..there was not much water in that but next to that a huge one was waiting for us...we came across many travelers who were returning they just passed the
Nala's somehow it was already full...they were advising no point in going ahead...But we didn't had any choice as our stay was in Sarchu...after 30 minutes we came across a big one...cars even big trucks were waiting to get it cleared...one of the tempo traveler drive said they went half way and turned back..just got saved..it was life/death situation for them...We stopped out car and went ahead to see what is the situation..it was scary... big rocks, glaciers were coming from top of mountain...road was almost vanished... 4-5 JCB's came from both the sides within 10 mins ...but force was so much that no one was daring to go ahead...we waited their for couple of hours and force was increasing ...there was no way it will stop before next day morning...
Initially we were thinking we are blessed that weather is clear and there are no rains and we could enjoy journey...but because of sunny day the force of water was so much...any ways it was lifetime experience...unplanned spot that we covered...one face of nature... I got some dry snacks with me chips, bhakarwadi chocolates...Jitu was giving gyan that we should not eat chocolates initially and then he had almost half of that chocolate packet..."nautanki sala"...
We had photo session on this spot which we didn't got chance yet...here one rule was set within us..."agar ek ka photo ek pose main liye to baki dono ka bhi us pose main hona hi chahiye"...Manish was never satisfies with any photo and stats taking selfies with his note 3 post out photo session...I bet out of 1800 photo we took, 800 must have been Manish's photos...:P
We decided to turn back and find some shelter for night...while coming back the first Nala that we cross while coming was already overflowing...it was seems like risky to move ahead..but drive had experience so we went thru it..but while passing this..car Tyer slipped from a rock and punctured.... it took another half an hour to change tyer... while coming we saw one tent in Gispa..where usually people stay while this journey...so we decided to check if we can get some tent to spend night...First Gold camp was full, we even checked in government guest house, that was also full...finally we got a small camp "Himalayan Road camp" ...
we negotiated and got one tent for 1000 Rs.... Sunset happend at around 8 pm...we had just dal and chapani in dinner and went to sleep at around 11 pm. Drive was already flat at 9 pm only...Climate was very chilled..we had all jackets, blankets everything on... usually there is no light in tent at night after 12 pm..at around 4 am in the morning sunrize happened... Day is very long in this high altitude regions...In morning water was so chilled we could date to take bath....
Todays target was almost 350 km...100 km which we could not cover on previous day due to land slide and 250 km for next day..again a big task...we had tea and started our next journey at around 7 am
Day 3 itinerary: Sarchu to Leh (255 Kms) Leave for Leh by early morning, through Nakeela and Lachangla Pass16,617 ft. Lunch at Pang. After the Lunch drive to Leh passing through Skyangchu Thang (Biggest and Highest Plateau on Earth on Stretch of 42 Kms), Tanglang La Pass 17,585ft and Indus Valley. Arrive at Leh by evening. Overnight stay at the Hotel.
Border road organization (BRO)'s response was really quick they had worked overnight and cleared that road....seriously we feel proud to be Indian and feel like saluting our military as always...at around 9 am we cross that Nala..and headed for next journey...sometimes whatever happens is for Good...
since we had to take halt at Gispa due to land slide...we could enjoy scenery on way to Sarchu in the morning sun light..it was amazing...each sight during this journey is like a wallpaper...Beauty of nature...simply beautiful....we traveled thru Baralacha Pass, Nakeela and Lachangla Pass16,617 ft and reached pang at around 3 pm...
We were continuously traveling spiked our breakfast and lunch today also...but sight was so amazing that we never felt like hungry...Haan but Manish was halting car after evern 20 mins saying "Bhyaiya gaadi side me lagado halaka hona hai" and with Jitu also taking opportunity of the moment...."Sala itana susu late kaha se ho!!!:P"....and since i was not going out, Jitu's comments "Amey...tera kidney pura control main hai...tujhe halaka nahi hona"....No one was leaving a single chance to pull leg for others..and in this drive was always in "hurry!"...
Road on side of mountain was scary ...it seems like anytime landslide will happen...while crossing from Sarchu...one of the soldier asked for lift...it was our pleasure...he was from Rajastan...he was telling about their life... the soldier also told us that in last week it was raining heavily and one group of 7 tourist died in land slide..."Maut aani hai to kahi se bhi aa hi jayegi.." but luckily it was not raining today... so there is not that much feat of land slide but Nala can be a road block...we will have to move faster... He also suggested some good Places to see on the way... He said on this Skyangchu Thang we can see dogs size rats..he even showed one photo...it was huge...he got down at whisky bridge...there are many such spots military has named...
Baralacha Pass, Nakeela and Lachangla Pass16,617 ft and pang..during this journey we saw snow cap mountains, deep long spread valley (feels like grant canyon), natural structures in Pang (look like made up of sands in deserts), rivers, lake...it was complete beauty of nature...everything is there at one place..
At Pang Manish was feeling uneasy...restaurant aunty advice to take lemon ginger tea..we order Maggi and lemon ginger tea... it was so awesome and refresher that in remaining trip we had only lemon ginger tea... during this travel we had very little food..and that's the way to complete this travel without any health issues...we started from there at around 3:30 pm...next spot was Skyangchu Thang (Biggest and Highest Plateau on Earth on Stretch of 42 Kms)..one will love to drive on this road...simply awesome...we passed thru it within an hour... and next another land slide was waiting for us...
Many tourist were retuning from other side...we asked one of them they said..."Aagle land slide ke waja se almost 200 military truck fase hue hai"...we were like it seems one more experience is waiting for us...we decided to move ahead and give a try..but before reaching land slide location one Nala was already overflowing...since one tyer was already punctured...we decided not to take any chance...all tourist vehicles where waiting on both the sides...we were waiting for JCB to come and normalize flow ...but no one came for long time..it seems all were at land slide location.. Many cars came from behind and they blocked the road...and these people are so arrogant and rigid...was not ready to move forward and backward also...after some time military truk came and they have to clear the road...
It was almost 6:30 pm...there is no way that Nala will be cleared now...it was freezing cold ...there was no point in waiting at that spot... but everyone had limited fuel..as there is no petrol pump between Jispa to Leh...thats why everyone was little hesitant to turn back...but since there was no hope for the day we turn back and see if we can get some place to stay for night...
while coming we saw only some tents around 30 km away from our current location...we headed towards that..by the time we reached their almost all the tents were occupied...I suddenly went in to a house...there were only 4 beds remaining in that Ladakhi house...and along with me one more person was standing for the same.. lady said 230 Rs. Per person...Manish also cam in at the same time..he just asked lady "200 main ho sakta hai kya"...she said no "Fix rate hai"...i immediately gave 500 to her...and luckily we got 4 beds which were last on that big Plateau...
we kept our luggage in car only and went inside..it was actually there kitchen...one Sardarji came in kitchen and asked about toilet...lady said "piche kapada laga hua hai..wahi pe hai"...he asked "english hai k indian"...she said "lakdeka hai...aap jake dekhlo"... Jitu was in full tension...as he wanted to go as well...we went back side to check out...it was freezing outside...and after checking toilet he was like "waat lag gayi!"...it was "slum dog millionaire wala toilet...wooden plates kept on the group and hole in that..." he had no choice but to use that...i came back...Sardarji who went to check the same also came back and order "Char aande ki bhurji...mirchi aur pyaz daalke" he was asking for chicken also..we were like "ye marega"...that sardarji group had egg omlate,maggi, chicken rise, rum..."full dabake khaya"...We just had our favorite lemon ginger tea and some biscuit...and laid on bed ..
We came out of airport at around 1:00 pm and there Vijay (our driver) was waiting for us. Typical Haryanvi..He gave us first surprise of the trip..."Sahab Jaldi chaliye...Manali pohochne main late ho jayega" ...He told it will take around 8:00 pm to reach Manali...ohh!! We thought we will spend at least an hour in Chandigarh and have lunch and then once we reach Manali will spend some "leisure time" in Market as mentioned in itinerary. l.o.l. "Leisure Time" these words got different meaning during our entire journey.
Day 1 itinerary : Arrival Chandigarh-Manali Arrival at Chandigarh Airport. Meet the representative/driver who will transfer you to Manali. Check-in and Time at leisure to explore the beauty on Manali. Overnight at hotel in Manali (Dinner )
We drive out of airport and then Manish realized he forgot his boarding pass in AvA shop...we went back to airport ...this added additional 1/2 hr in our journey...Manish had to listen for this during entire journey...:D..."Sab log ek se badkar ek...koi mauka nahi chodte...".
So because of this first surprise we decided to have lunch on highway Dhaba only... at around 4 pm we took halt at Punjabi dhaba...while ordering food we came to know there are 4 different type of Chiken (Murgi) in Punjab...Chiken Handi, chiken tikka, chiken masal...and something..before this we were aware of only two Desi and English murgi...It was joke of the day...but food was awesome! chiken with roti with pure makkan on top of it...i never had such makkan till now...simply great... at the end we ordered Pajnb di Lassi... but it was like a Chas... disappointment...probably it was not a typical punjabi dhaba..We started from there in half an hour...due to bad roads we were moving slowly...First journey it self was too long...around 300 km ...during journey we realized we should have taken flight for Dharmshala...it was near to Manali and we might have got chance to enjoy Manali also...lessons learned!
At around 6 pm we realized that it will take around 4-5 hrs more to reach Manali...We called up in hotel...They said you have to reach by 10:30 for dinner else have dinner in route...it was so rude...We called up Ankit and complaint him about the same. Later on there was no network so couldn't call any of them. So we decided, lets go non stop and try to reach by 10:30 pm. The journey from Dharmshala bypass to Manali was simply amazing...slight rain, lake covered with clouds, river with pure white water flowing heavily... and climate was soothing... perfect environment to relax, where one should take a cup of drink and enjoy peaceful journey. Noise of water flowing in river was thrilling... None of us were slept previous night but still no one was looking fresh... We reached Manali market at around 10:20, still some shops were open but we did not had time so could not stop there...we reached hotel sharp at 10:30 pm...What a timing! we were discussing during journey... that we will straight away go to restaurant and have dinner and then will do check in. But hotel staff was really co operative they said "app chekin karke fresh ho jayiye...khana ready hai"...Ankit had taken care of it.
Driver informed us about next day schedule it was again around 250 km journey for next three days..and we had to start early morning around 6:00 am to reach destination on time...2nd surprise!!...
We had diner...i was feeling little uneasy so left diner in between and went to room... got fresh and went to sleep..praying there should not be any health issues else entire trip would spoil...Manish and Jitu didn't sleep that night also...
Next day morning i got up at 5:00 am went in gallery...sunrise has already happened...it was amazing view outside..snow cap mountains and greenery... It was very chilled ...i immediately close the door...put on my jacket took out camera and started photography...At around 7 am we started from hotel with packed breakfast from hotel.. We though of spending some time i market but it was on other side and Vijay told that journey is too long and thru mountains... we will be late to reach next halt "Sarchu"...(although we didn't reach there due to next surprise :P)...So we skip market/Manali and started ...By this time we realized that itinerary is not good...Our driver had experience of 15 years on that road...he also told that it should be max 150 km per day to enjoy all the spots.. we realized next 3 days are going to be task for us to complete 10 to 12 hours of journey with sight seeing and photography... But 3 Idiots was on Rodie's Journey and many more surprises where waiting for us on the road... and first spot was 'Rohtang pass" or "Rohtang la"...In Himachal/Ladhakh they call 'La' for mountain road by pass...
Day 2 itinerary: Manali to Sarchu (222 Kms) Leave for Sarchu by early Morning, through Rohtang Pass (13050 ft), Lahaul Valley, Tandi, Keylong, Jispa, Lunch Break at Darcha. After Lunch drive to Sarchu through Baralacha Pass (16020 ft). Overnight stay at Hotel
We reached Rohtangpass at around 10 am ...the same location in "Jub We Met"... awesome it was.. There are many shops on the way where you can take snow suite on rent..starting from 50 Rs. to 250 Rs...If you have time should take it and enjoy to the fullest...but We had only 15 mins there...So just bought hand gloves and enjoyed in snow for 1/2 an hour.. out first photo session of the trip :)...
Driver was already worried...he said we have run have to cross all nala (Water flows generated due to melting glaciers and which cuts roads evening due to heavy force of water)... There were 3 major Nala's on the road we had to cross during this 2nd day journey to reach "Sarchu"... We started immediately non stop thru Lahaul Valley, Tandi, Keylong, Jispa, at around 4 pm we were at Darcha, We took halt there at lunch/snacks. We didn't got chance to halt and take photos at any of these spots. We were angry at Ankit what kind of pathetic itinerary it is. We are yet to cross 3 Nala's and it was already 4:30 pm..we started from Darcha and cross 1st Nala's in next 20 mins..there was not much water in that but next to that a huge one was waiting for us...we came across many travelers who were returning they just passed the
Nala's somehow it was already full...they were advising no point in going ahead...But we didn't had any choice as our stay was in Sarchu...after 30 minutes we came across a big one...cars even big trucks were waiting to get it cleared...one of the tempo traveler drive said they went half way and turned back..just got saved..it was life/death situation for them...We stopped out car and went ahead to see what is the situation..it was scary... big rocks, glaciers were coming from top of mountain...road was almost vanished... 4-5 JCB's came from both the sides within 10 mins ...but force was so much that no one was daring to go ahead...we waited their for couple of hours and force was increasing ...there was no way it will stop before next day morning...
Initially we were thinking we are blessed that weather is clear and there are no rains and we could enjoy journey...but because of sunny day the force of water was so much...any ways it was lifetime experience...unplanned spot that we covered...one face of nature... I got some dry snacks with me chips, bhakarwadi chocolates...Jitu was giving gyan that we should not eat chocolates initially and then he had almost half of that chocolate packet..."nautanki sala"...
We had photo session on this spot which we didn't got chance yet...here one rule was set within us..."agar ek ka photo ek pose main liye to baki dono ka bhi us pose main hona hi chahiye"...Manish was never satisfies with any photo and stats taking selfies with his note 3 post out photo session...I bet out of 1800 photo we took, 800 must have been Manish's photos...:P
We decided to turn back and find some shelter for night...while coming back the first Nala that we cross while coming was already overflowing...it was seems like risky to move ahead..but drive had experience so we went thru it..but while passing this..car Tyer slipped from a rock and punctured.... it took another half an hour to change tyer... while coming we saw one tent in Gispa..where usually people stay while this journey...so we decided to check if we can get some tent to spend night...First Gold camp was full, we even checked in government guest house, that was also full...finally we got a small camp "Himalayan Road camp" ...
we negotiated and got one tent for 1000 Rs.... Sunset happend at around 8 pm...we had just dal and chapani in dinner and went to sleep at around 11 pm. Drive was already flat at 9 pm only...Climate was very chilled..we had all jackets, blankets everything on... usually there is no light in tent at night after 12 pm..at around 4 am in the morning sunrize happened... Day is very long in this high altitude regions...In morning water was so chilled we could date to take bath....
Todays target was almost 350 km...100 km which we could not cover on previous day due to land slide and 250 km for next day..again a big task...we had tea and started our next journey at around 7 am
Day 3 itinerary: Sarchu to Leh (255 Kms) Leave for Leh by early morning, through Nakeela and Lachangla Pass16,617 ft. Lunch at Pang. After the Lunch drive to Leh passing through Skyangchu Thang (Biggest and Highest Plateau on Earth on Stretch of 42 Kms), Tanglang La Pass 17,585ft and Indus Valley. Arrive at Leh by evening. Overnight stay at the Hotel.
Border road organization (BRO)'s response was really quick they had worked overnight and cleared that road....seriously we feel proud to be Indian and feel like saluting our military as always...at around 9 am we cross that Nala..and headed for next journey...sometimes whatever happens is for Good...
since we had to take halt at Gispa due to land slide...we could enjoy scenery on way to Sarchu in the morning sun light..it was amazing...each sight during this journey is like a wallpaper...Beauty of nature...simply beautiful....we traveled thru Baralacha Pass, Nakeela and Lachangla Pass16,617 ft and reached pang at around 3 pm...
We were continuously traveling spiked our breakfast and lunch today also...but sight was so amazing that we never felt like hungry...Haan but Manish was halting car after evern 20 mins saying "Bhyaiya gaadi side me lagado halaka hona hai" and with Jitu also taking opportunity of the moment...."Sala itana susu late kaha se ho!!!:P"....and since i was not going out, Jitu's comments "Amey...tera kidney pura control main hai...tujhe halaka nahi hona"....No one was leaving a single chance to pull leg for others..and in this drive was always in "hurry!"...
Road on side of mountain was scary ...it seems like anytime landslide will happen...while crossing from Sarchu...one of the soldier asked for lift...it was our pleasure...he was from Rajastan...he was telling about their life... the soldier also told us that in last week it was raining heavily and one group of 7 tourist died in land slide..."Maut aani hai to kahi se bhi aa hi jayegi.." but luckily it was not raining today... so there is not that much feat of land slide but Nala can be a road block...we will have to move faster... He also suggested some good Places to see on the way... He said on this Skyangchu Thang we can see dogs size rats..he even showed one photo...it was huge...he got down at whisky bridge...there are many such spots military has named...
Baralacha Pass, Nakeela and Lachangla Pass16,617 ft and pang..during this journey we saw snow cap mountains, deep long spread valley (feels like grant canyon), natural structures in Pang (look like made up of sands in deserts), rivers, lake...it was complete beauty of nature...everything is there at one place..
At Pang Manish was feeling uneasy...restaurant aunty advice to take lemon ginger tea..we order Maggi and lemon ginger tea... it was so awesome and refresher that in remaining trip we had only lemon ginger tea... during this travel we had very little food..and that's the way to complete this travel without any health issues...we started from there at around 3:30 pm...next spot was Skyangchu Thang (Biggest and Highest Plateau on Earth on Stretch of 42 Kms)..one will love to drive on this road...simply awesome...we passed thru it within an hour... and next another land slide was waiting for us...
Many tourist were retuning from other side...we asked one of them they said..."Aagle land slide ke waja se almost 200 military truck fase hue hai"...we were like it seems one more experience is waiting for us...we decided to move ahead and give a try..but before reaching land slide location one Nala was already overflowing...since one tyer was already punctured...we decided not to take any chance...all tourist vehicles where waiting on both the sides...we were waiting for JCB to come and normalize flow ...but no one came for long time..it seems all were at land slide location.. Many cars came from behind and they blocked the road...and these people are so arrogant and rigid...was not ready to move forward and backward also...after some time military truk came and they have to clear the road...
It was almost 6:30 pm...there is no way that Nala will be cleared now...it was freezing cold ...there was no point in waiting at that spot... but everyone had limited fuel..as there is no petrol pump between Jispa to Leh...thats why everyone was little hesitant to turn back...but since there was no hope for the day we turn back and see if we can get some place to stay for night...
while coming we saw only some tents around 30 km away from our current location...we headed towards that..by the time we reached their almost all the tents were occupied...I suddenly went in to a house...there were only 4 beds remaining in that Ladakhi house...and along with me one more person was standing for the same.. lady said 230 Rs. Per person...Manish also cam in at the same time..he just asked lady "200 main ho sakta hai kya"...she said no "Fix rate hai"...i immediately gave 500 to her...and luckily we got 4 beds which were last on that big Plateau...
we kept our luggage in car only and went inside..it was actually there kitchen...one Sardarji came in kitchen and asked about toilet...lady said "piche kapada laga hua hai..wahi pe hai"...he asked "english hai k indian"...she said "lakdeka hai...aap jake dekhlo"... Jitu was in full tension...as he wanted to go as well...we went back side to check out...it was freezing outside...and after checking toilet he was like "waat lag gayi!"...it was "slum dog millionaire wala toilet...wooden plates kept on the group and hole in that..." he had no choice but to use that...i came back...Sardarji who went to check the same also came back and order "Char aande ki bhurji...mirchi aur pyaz daalke" he was asking for chicken also..we were like "ye marega"...that sardarji group had egg omlate,maggi, chicken rise, rum..."full dabake khaya"...We just had our favorite lemon ginger tea and some biscuit...and laid on bed ..
But it was very noisy...people were coming after ever 2 mins to check for room, or blankets or to order some food...they were even sitting on our bed...like people do in train journey...we were feeling like headache...we had Disprine tablet and went to sleep..
At around 11:00 pm we went out...people were sleeping in shed out side of rooms...full clean sky could see thousands of stars...air flowing in full force like storm...was feeling like we should
sleep their only by watching it..but with that freezing climate we
could stand their for more than 10 mins... it was chilled outside...entire area was covered with almost 40-50 vehicles (cars, buses ets)
...many people were sleeping in the cars only... we were feeling lucky to get that room to sleep. We came back on bed...as it was their kitchen, room was little worm...people were ordering some or the other till 12 am and that family was providing everything to them and that too at reasonable cost..they would have earned a lot by charging anything...but no they didn't change rate...after 12 am they had their dinner and went to sleep...
...many people were sleeping in the cars only... we were feeling lucky to get that room to sleep. We came back on bed...as it was their kitchen, room was little worm...people were ordering some or the other till 12 am and that family was providing everything to them and that too at reasonable cost..they would have earned a lot by charging anything...but no they didn't change rate...after 12 am they had their dinner and went to sleep...
All three of us feeling breathing problems.... Jitu was still in full tension...he has to go to toilet in early morning...:P) ...he couldn't sleep whole night...Manish was also feeling headache in the night..Jitu went out at around 3 am and released his tension :)...It was sunrise at around 4 and we all woke up...our driver who slept at 8 pm woke up directly at 5 am in morning....we had tea and started for next journey at 5:30 am...we heard that late night lot of trucks came from other side so definitely road is opened.. Nala where we stuck last night was also cleared now..we straight away headed towards Leh..crossed Tanglang La Pass 17,585ft and Indus Valley both were amazing view and we could see all these because of that land slide...otherwise we would have missed it in night travel...We were thinking what a pathetic plan Pearl travel has given us..we almost lost 2 night stay and food which was covered in package..but luckily we got to see all scenery ...
We reached Leh at around 9:00 am..simply awesome roads..clean and disciplined city...our hotel was just beside the airport...the first place I visited in Leh is...City Hospital...as soon as we checked in to hotel i met with small accident...while taking out luggage my leg went in to a pothole and i suddenly cached the car door..and due to force car door also closed and my fingers stuck in between that..everyone thought my leg and fingers are gone...we immediately headed towards hospital...Thanks to God!...nothing happened they just gave me pain killer and we came back to hotel...
Hospitality in hotel was really good. We went to room and took rest till 1:30 pm. at around 2 pm went came down for lunch..actually plan was to have lunch on the way but tour operator adjusted plan and arranged our lunch in hotel only..since there was no one other than us in hotel...they told us there is no buffet you can order whatever you want...we ordered chicken handi, fried rice, salad and 2-3 other items..had proper lunch after 3 days of journey...food taste was simply awesome ..5 stat quality...
whatever we missed in last 3 days was covered in this hotel stay...at the end i asked for "Sweet main kya hai"...they said "Gulab jamin, rasgulla, icecream" ...we order all 1-1 plate....on top of this Manish and Jitu ordered "fresh lime soda"..."full lute liya".
Day 4 itineary: Leh – Alchi Morning drive to Alchi 68km enroute visit Magnetic hill, sangam of Indus and Zanskar Rivers which are the two major rivers in Ladakh followed by visit to the magnificent Basgo Castle. Afternoon on arrival in Alchi village check in at the Hotel and later visit the 1000 year old miniature paintings of Alchi monastery which is among the top 7 national heritage monuments in India. Evening relax and stroll around the village. Overnight at the Hotel..
Night stay was in Alchi and we had lot of spots to cover before reaching there..and 1/2 day is already gone...we started at around 3 pm ... Due to previous 3 days Rodies task we were used to cover spots in 5 to 10 mins....and did same thing with these spots also..
The route to Alchi is via NH1...i cant tell you the kind of feeling while traveling thru 1st national highway..and it is maintained also in the same way...you would love to drive on this...We coverd magnetic field, Bosgo Castle covered on the way...next spot "
"Indus- Zanskar rivers sangam" we took some photos from the top and the took halt at actual spot.. driver has parked the car and lit cigarette...by this time we are done with the spot...l.o.l...he was like "itana jaldi hogaya"...he has to throw his cigarette and we started ahead...next spot was Alchi Monastery...its good to see more than 1000 years old heritage place maintained so well...its a peaceful area...we spent around an hour here ....
Here we came to know about some belief's in local culture...while this trip we have seen lot of flags...on motorbikes, top of house, on each mountain pass, beside bridge, on every important place... "Om mani padme hum" was written on those flags and also you can found it on large cylindrical metallic structures ...Its belief that its good to recite this mantra every time...it brings good luck. Also on many places you will find white color temple like structures...its belief that these brings peace and luck...people create such structures for prayers... Also on every mountain pass be it Kardungla, Lachangla, Tanglangla...you can find building blocks created with stones...its belief that it helps to complete wish to build one's own house...so many good things...
It was almost 5:30 pm...and tour operator told us to reach resort early to experience it beauty ....We arrived in resort at around 6 pm...since its high altitude area and generally sunset happens very late at around 8 pm...its was a beautiful report beside Zanskar river...really beautiful... We had long photo session first time during this trip... My leg twisted twice here and i was about to fall down...since accident happened on day one in Leh both Manish and Jitu was always behind me to mind my steps...and still such accidents happening with me..Lo.L..Thanks to god! nothing major happened..
then went to canteen for diner.. It was Japaneses style dinner today... but not ready yet.."Pandeji" (hotel manager) served some soup...the soup was horrible but Pandeji was entertaining...He was aware about some 4-5 languages including french, Japanies etc...he said "Namaste" in 3-4 languages... it was like bouncer for us..but was fun...These hotels are open from April to October and remain closed other time...all staff go home during this time and come back only next year.. and for 6 month of stay they get salary and food everything...
After having soup we couldn't dared to have diner...we went back to our cottage and spent some time their listing music and chitchatting...After 4 days of non stop journey this was the real leisure time we spent...next day is also similar..
In morning at around 9 am we started day 5 journey... "Pandeji" gave us packed lunch...we asked for boiled eggs only :P...while coming we covered magnetic field... we stopped there and ask driver to put car in neutral came out of car.. literary car starting moving slow towards magnetic field direction against the slope... nature is amazing and keeps on showing wonders...
Next we reached to War Museum....till now we have not spent more than 1/2 hr on any spot but here it was so amazing that we spent almost 3 hrs here...It was really proud and patriotic feeling to watch stories of victory of Indian Army, Air force starting 1948 till Kargil war...the world records noted on our names....The highest airbase, highest mot-arable roads, highest medical facility, what kind of bonding military have with local people... on each and every step its different experience...simply amazing!!!... how Army protect country even in minus 40 degree temperature... Its thrilling...
From here we straight away went to Leh hotel...it was really nice of them to serve lunch in hotel..inspite of the fact that we had packed lunch..we returned it to them and had good fresh lunch in hotel...all complaints we had with pearl travels in initial 4 days.. are not compromised with this service that we got in this hotel...Thanks to Ankit!
In the evening we covered remaining spots...Ladakhi house, Shanti stupa and then visited market. Ancient Ladakhi house is there only in stock village...this is maintained by Ladakh government, one family actually maintains it...guide shows us their kitchen, bed rooms, food storage, wine storage...since alomst 6 months entire ladakh is covered with snow..so they have to preserve food...we got to see ancient coins, traditional cloths, electronic equipments etc...
Next we covered Stock palace ..it was huge but we didn't spent much time there...later on we realize that we missed it... we could have covered this palace...coz Leh palace is under maintenance and there was nothing to see as such...anyways it happens...Sahanti Stup is a Buddhist white-domed stupa on a hilltop in Chanspa, Leh district, Ladakh, in the north Indian state of Jammu and Kashmir. It was built in 1991 by Japanese Buddhist Bhikshu, Gyomyo Nakamura and part of the Peace Pagoda mission. It was peaceful place to relax...we spent about an hour here...and had small photo session also...
After this we went to Market and did some shopping..purchased famous pashmin shawl and t-shirts....another relaxing day is over...
Day 6: Leh to Pangong & back to Leh
Early morning fullday excursion to Pangong Lake 135 km / 4400m east of Leh crossing Changla Pass 17500ft and driving via Durbuk and Tangtse villages in the Changthang region of Ladakh and perhaps one of the most amazing lakes in Asia which changes its color 4 – 5 times a day. Evening free in the market. Overnight at the hotel
Now again real journey starts...one leisure time is over and in early morning around 6 am we started..to visit the most beautiful and famous lake in Ladakh-Pangong Tso (Tso means Lake) ...This got famous because of 3 idiots movie recently...Its 132 km long and extends from India to Tibet.. Indo-China line of control passes thru this lake... Way towards Pangong goes via Chagla pass...this is not so good road and we had to come back before 4 pm otherwise there is possibility of road block due to Nala/landslide...but again this is another amazing travel experience thru nature... and till now climate was with us..there was no rain since we started our journey...Thanks to god!...While listing old songs and enjoying nature....we arrived at pangong tso at arond 11:30 am...and spent quality time there...took lot of photos...its really a heaven on earth...perfect place to take 360 degree photos...
one uncle suggested us to take some weird photos while jumping..he was coming from Amarnath yatra...and he shows us his photos...at that age he was so active....one new married couples group..was doing some skit their.....full time-pass..
The place was so good that we didn't want to move from there. Finally at around 2 pm we started back...we had our lunch in car only...in one the military canteen we got famous Kashmiri drink Kawah ...While listening music and having fun we reached hotel at around 8 pm... had delicious diner in hotel...
Day 7&8: To Nubra Valley and back to leh
After breakfast pack-up and rive to Nubra valley 142km from Stok via Khardongla Pass 5600m which is the world highest motorabble pass. On arrival in Nubra visit the white Sand Dunes near Hunder and Diskit Monastery. Overnight in Deluxe Camp. Morning after breakfast at leisure and later drive back to Leh via the same route. Evening free in Leh Bazaars for shopping etc.
By this time we were used to get up early morning...almost at 5-6 am ..coz sunrise used to happen at 4:30 am only and then it relly hot to stay in hotel without Ac...On day 7 we started at 8 am towards Nubra vally via Khardongla ...the worlds highest motarable road...offcourse with this fact it has to be amazing.. and it was...while coming from Manali to Leh we were running and could not spent much time on any pass..but here we enjoyed a lot while going to Nubra and while coming from Nubra...we played with snow ..took photos...had lot of fun...and after this had our favorite lemon ginger tea...its refreshing in that climate.. Nature gave us chance to experience snow fall also...
At around 3 pm we reached at Diskit Gompa...Here we saw more 100 feet high Maitreya Buddha statue...this is the place where you can see desert at one side, a river in the middle and greenery on another side.
Nubra is a tri-armed valley located to the north east of Ladakh valley. Its full of white sand dunes. We enjoyed double hump camel ride and archery over here till 5 pm. Sonam Kapoor was there in Nubra valley at the same time for some movie shooting..but it was far away so we could not see it....
We took lot of profile pictures here... Jitu's entire next year facebook profile photo quota is ready now...:P...in the evening we had our packed lunch in car..
At around 6 pm we arrived at deluxe camp...
en-route we saw small sand storm also... The camp was full.. a group of 30-40 bikers was already there... generally bikers group take one or two day halt here after a week long journey...The camp was surrounded by nursery of small cabbage, sunflower and other plants.....we had relaxing time here.Deluxe camping experience which we missed in Sarchu is covered here although climate was different.. In night we saw movie on mobile and went to sleep at around 1 am...
It was raining heavily in the night...we were parying it should not cause any road blocks while returning as route is via khardongla....but in morning clime was ok...we started from Camp at around 9 am...and reached hotel by 2 pm...
This was last day of our trip...had mixed feeling...we enjoyed a lot throughout the trip...there was no network throughout the trip so everyone's cell was almost switched off...spent quality time enjoying nature...worth trip.
In the evening we covered last spot Leh palace...
this was kind of disappointing coz maintenance work was going on here so we came out within 15-20 mins..and headed towards market for shopping...
we spent almost 3 hours for shopping.. and bought Ladakhi special shawl, couple of handbags from local shops and military t-shirts from military shops... its really difficult to identify original vs duplicate... there you can find shawl starting 500 till 15000...which is pure which is fake dont know...i wanted to buy some dryfruits also but didn't find good deal... at around 6 pm we started towards hotel..suddenly manish went in one shop to buy cloths...we thought it will be maz 1/2 an hr..but he spent 2 hrs there..and at around 8. The final task was waiting for us..we had to make payment to tour operator and almost all the ATM we saw till now was closed. Yeah you saw it right "ATM was closed".. we spent almost another 1 hr to search for ATM with cash...finally found one SBI ATM with huge line...we had no choice but to stand in queue...we reached hotel at around 10 pm...had our last delicious diner in hote...this was our last night in leh.. We did packing as next day morning was our flight for return journey... Leh being sensitive area ...airport checking takes long time...so its better to start early.. In morning though airport was 5 mins from hotel we started almost 2 hours early..and decision was correct, we boarded flight just on time.
Few tips for your road trip from Manali to Leh...Take flight to Dharmshala or Kulu so that you can spend some time in Manali also ..book flight in 3-4 months advance to minimize cost...Plan spots to visit in properly...consider travel is thru mountain so time taken to cover distance will be more.. keep max 150-180 km travel per day.. start early morning coz road block happens in evening...keep some dry /packed ready to eat food and chocolates with you coz never know where you will stuck...don't eat much during travel...consider having lemon ginger tea rather than medicine if you are feeling uneasy...this travels is from himachal to Leh ladakh...you willl have to take permit for travel many times... especially in Manali - Rohtang pass, there are only limited number of vehicles allowed per day..so ask tour operator to keep permit ready a day before your travel...there are many checkpost.. so if you are driving your own car/bike then make sure to know all these check post and what is needed to get permit for the same. Self driven hired cards are locally banned in Ladakh reason is military and tourism are the only way of earning for local peoples...so avoid using such cars for your travel...provide your help wherever possible thru tips or donation...and plastic usage is ban in Ladakh so dont carry any plastics during journey and help to keep city clean. Refer guide attached (courtesy Vinay Adiga) for detailed instructions.
Happy Journey!!
Enjoy photos of our trip: https://picasaweb.google.com/104563303978855951168/ManaliLehLadakh2015?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCP-J6uOh2IX3xQE&feat=directlink
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